When it comes to formal events, the season of elegance is always on. The RSVP of the Black Tie invitation guides us to choose the right outfit for an unforgettable evening. To leave the desired impression and attract the eyes of connoisseurs , we have gathered the most relevant tips from master tailors , covering everything you need to know about the Black Tie dress code .
From how to choose the right outfit for a romantic stroll with your loved one, the prestigious awards gala, the business dinner with industry moguls or the long-awaited wedding of the year, to the must-have accessories you need to purchase for a complete look.
The combination of a slim-cut black suit, a white men's shirt with a plastron, freshly taken out of the box, and a perfectly tied men's bow tie will retain the imprint of good taste and sophisticated style over time. The Black Tie dress code remains today the 3D business card of a gentleman with tradition and elegance.
Tudor Tailors breathe the air of elegance, and Black Tie attire is exactly their niche. Through a sneak peak into the past, you will experience the historical thread of the evolution of this dress code and receive the perfect inspiration for the Black Tie event you will attend.
The story of the emergence of the Black Tie concept
We go back to the end of the 19th century, when the Black Tie style first appeared in high society courts and families as a less formal alternative. to the majestic royal costumes or the specific White Tie attire.
It was King Edward VII who introduced the concept when he asked the famous Henry Poole & Co, tailors who still serve royal clients today, to create a blue silk tuxedo jacket with matching trousers. Thus was born the Black Tie outfit, which offered the monarch a more comfortable alternative to the formality of evening dress.
Like any attire displayed by the monarchy or in elite circles, the dress code became a trend and was adopted with great curiosity by the members of the Tuxedo Club in New York. In a short time, the concept was imprinted in the trends of the early 20th century, through the “wing” collar of the white shirt and the indispensable bow tie , executed in the manner of Beau Brummell from the early 19th century. These became trademarks for the Black Tie dress code to which the appropriate accessories were attached to the outfit, where we remember the elegant cufflinks and buttons made of precious stones or with inscriptions of the royal coat of arms.
Later, in the interwar period, the Black Tie outfit has also become popular in the public space where it began to be found in the dressing rooms of many intellectual men of that time. Through the refinement displayed by the boyar and bourgeois monsieurs, in chosen outfits and with exemplary manners, many glances were exchanged in tête-à-têtes with stylish young ladies at fashionable dinners and in the numerous rendez-vous at the Kübler café where they reviewed the news from the daily newspaper Universul.
Gentlemen also chose Black Tie attire for hot summer events, having access to a variety of much lighter and looser-textured materials and fabrics. Dark colors remained the specific tones of the clothing style, with the interwar man accessorizing with a soft-brimmed felt hat.
What does the Black Tie concept look like today?
While our Victorian ancestors opted for this look in a casual approach, the tuxedo has now become the most formal item of clothing a man can purchase for his wardrobe - and an investment that deserves all the attention. Its appearance represented a creative alternative, a transition from formal to semi-formal which in the 21st century bears the label of the ultimate statement of elegance.
The suit has kept its classic lines, being cut in three pieces. Instead, we see more flexibility in the variety of patterns and colors that give the look a modern distinction. Although the Black Tie color scheme is not exclusively black, any desire to stand out through other colors should be tempered to respect the style's origins.
"Refined elegance and mutual respect are key elements of a black tie event ," says Simon Cundey, director of Henry Poole & Co. "It's like a golf club: when everyone is wearing matching polo shirts, the attire lends a distinguished air to the event. But when different shades and patterns are worn, it gives off a cheap air. "
Today, invitations to formal events are special and not as common as in the past. However, the dress code that has stood the test of time and remained imposing with its undisputed sophistication is Black Tie , the most elegant clothing style of the 21st century.
Black Tie Outfit: From Head to Toe
The classic Black Tie version is composed of a dark-colored formal suit, a tailored white shirt, an elegant bow tie made of fine materials, long silk socks, black leather shoes and a selection of stylish accessories. What do we do when we don't have a tailcoat or a tuxedo for the Black Tie dress code? Those who are looking for alternatives emphasize that je ne ce quoi of the outfit and propose bold variants where everything is in the details and accessories they opt for.
Black Tie Suit: All-in navy or fold-in with black?
The jacket, tuxedo or tailcoat are the Black Tie pieces of resistance and the options that a gentleman can study before choosing the perfect suit for the formal event. The classic Black Tie jacket is black in color , with lapels preferably dressed in black silk.
While a navy tuxedo might seem out of place and a bit extravagant to some gentlemen, it is historically accurate . Moreover, made from high-quality materials, it will take on a darker shade than the black version. “As the evening falls, the navy jacket takes on midnight tones, while the black material can turn more of a dusty gray, especially in mohair blends,” says fashion consultant Adrian Belbe. “Navy blue gives that sophisticated and regal touch.”
An elegant clothing option, with a cut suitable for Black Tie occasions, is The redingote. The more rebellious version of the tailcoat, the redingote has several cuts, from the classic model similar to the tailcoat with wide lapels, to the swallowtail or tunic, models that raise the note of refinement of the outfit.
Masters recommend that the pants They should be made of the same fabric as the jacket and be black. Avoid very slim and short trousers that end at the ankle. Gentlemen can choose between the classic model or the vipușca model, which has a black silk band that is applied over the side seam of the trousers. The golden rule for pants for this dress code is to wear them without cuffs.
Avant-garde lapel or classic lapel?
Since we're talking about lapels, we want to present the options for Black Tie outfits. When we say lapel, we're talking about the extension of the collar of a jacket. There are two types of lapels that we recommend:
Namely, the pointed lapel - the modern avant-garde option for high-fashion parties or social events, and the shawl lapel which is suitable for an elegant dinner or a grand ceremony, being the classic option you can opt for. You will not find the notch lapel on double-breasted jackets or tuxedos and thus is not recommended for formal situations where Black Tie is required. On the other hand, it is an excellent choice for business suits.
Another detail that can be useful in choosing an outfit is that a lapel cut from the same fabric as the jacket is a delicate option that respects the rigors of Black Tie. On the other hand, silk lapels bring a special touch of elegance and demand the attention of those present.
Shirt: from collar to cuff
Special moments should be marked with the right shirt that has a bow tie or French collar, double or single cuffs, button-down buttons and a plastron. For those unfamiliar, the plastron is the material that is added to the chest of the shirt, usually half the length, although you can also opt for a plastron along the entire length of the chest, for an extra touch of elegance. In a wardrobe crisis, you can get away with a simple white shirt, but you should know that the appearance will be less imposing.
Regarding the collar, there is the bow tie, known as the swallowtail pattern - an elegant appearance with a sophisticated and select air when it comes to the Black Tie event, but also the classic French collar , a suitable option for those who receive the invitation with the optional Black Tie dress code. If you really want to follow the dress code to the letter, then you will use buttonholes for the shirt, which are applied like those we purchase for the cuff. Buttonholes are the jewel of gentlemen during events and must be selected carefully and with good taste.
Self-tie or pre-tied bow tie?
Tying a bow tie properly is a challenge for most gentlemen, but the secret isn't in getting the bow perfect. That's why the elite recommend the self-tie option. If you opt for this, at the end of the evening you can wear it untied and retreat with the other gentlemen to an intimate place to enjoy a Cuban cigar.
If you insist on purchasing the pre-tied one, try to arrange it by giving it a real touch, by slightly bumping it . Also, opt for one with an adjustable neck to ensure that it is placed securely around the collar. Whatever the choice of the two models, check that it is of a size proportional to the lapel and collar of the shirt.
Shoes: patent leather or well-polished?
Shoes suitable for the classic Black Tie style integrate into the norms of aesthetic minimalism, as well as the rest of the outfit. The model should be simple, without perforations. Patent leather is the most elegant and formal option, but you can also opt for a well-polished leather.
A bold alternative is velvet loafers. Although traditionally reserved for “in-house” events and, according to Debrett’s etiquette guide, “common in the provinces,” today loafers can be the go-to for a fashionable, high-class event where you can step out of your comfort zone.
Fine fabric socks
When choosing a tuxedo, every detail of the outfit must be in tune with the note of distinction and finesse imposed . Black silk socks have their origin in the long stockings worn by aristocrats in combination with knee-length trousers. The shiny appearance of the material combines harmoniously with the satin bands applied over the seam of the trousers and represents the elegant choice for a matte fabric suit in combination with a pair of patent leather shoes.
What are the must-have accessories?
When selecting accessories, we aim to integrate them complementary to the entire look. For example, suspenders or a belt are accessories that provide comfort to gentlemen when wearing a Black Tie outfit, often consisting of three pieces. Suspenders are made of silk fabric, and the advice of the masters is to opt for non-colors. If you do not choose suspenders, you can opt for a belt, which is a suitable alternative.
The pocket square must be selected . If the recommended handkerchief is usually white, those who want a creative approach can also flirt with complementary shades to the lapel. You can opt for soft fabrics such as silk or cotton handkerchiefs. An elegant model that is within reach of any gentleman is the president , when you position the handkerchief in a straight line.
Last but not least, we are talking about the indispensable accessory of the Black Tie look: cufflinks . If we recommended them as buttons for the chest area, we will talk even more about them when we accessorize the cuff. Any shirt reaches its maximum potential when you choose the right pair of cufflinks. We recommend a variant with a dark stone or you can choose a pair of white cufflinks, says suit adviser Adrian Belbe. Also for formal events, silver or stainless steel cufflinks can be used, and for the wedding moment, you can opt for a pair of specially engraved cufflinks.
Is Black Tie the new White Tie of today?
White Tie is the undisputed champion of formality. With attire specific to presidential galas or premieres at the Royal Opera, it is the most elegant outfit a man can wear. With a patrician tradition dating back to the English Regency, the rules of White Tie are as rigid as the garments are splendid.
Nowadays, White Tie events are held in very small circles, and the formality required discourages planning an event with such strict etiquette. In public spaces, Black Tie has become the most elegant and accessible dress code for gentlemen and ladies who receive the invitation of absolute elegance.
We hope that the advice provided will meet the needs encountered in preparing for the expected event and guide you in choosing the clothing pieces and accessories of the sophistication required by Black Tie.
Choose the ceremonial outfit prepared by Tudor Tailor tailors in our showroom, and the final result will be the statement look for the Black Tie event!