Have you ever seen a man walking down the street in a suit and thought something didn't look right, but you couldn't figure out what was wrong? More than likely, it was a violation of one of the 3 basic rules below.
1. The length of the custom-made jacket will always reach the base of the seat and cover the pockets of the suit pants , otherwise the jacket is too long and the legs will appear shorter.
Another way to check the correct length of the jacket is by comparing it to your clenched fists with your arms extended downwards; the hem of the jacket should stop right at the fist.
Also, regardless of the length, the jacket needs an accentuated, cinched waist to create a subtle hourglass effect that compliments any type of silhouette and highlights the shoulders.
2. The correct length of the jacket sleeve will always leave at least 1.5 cm or a maximum of 2 cm of the shirt cuff visible , which in turn should stop at the base of the thumb.
A custom-made jacket that doesn't show that portion of the shirt looks too big, while one that reveals the shirt too much will look small, too short at the sleeves, and will ride up a lot when the hands are raised.
Few people know, however, why this is the correct length. This is not only an aesthetic one but also a practical one: so that the jacket never touches the skin of the hand directly and deteriorates faster due to sweat or oils produced by the glands on the surface of the skin. The same is required for the jacket collar, the shirt must be visible approx. 2 cm behind the neck.
3. Another important aspect when talking about a custom jacket is the shape and size of the shoulders. When worn normally but also when the arms are raised, the jacket should not feel too loose on the shoulders, nor too tight. If the shoulders are too large they will form an unsightly crease when the arms move.
A custom-made jacket will always look impeccable and above all, it will demonstrate that it belongs to the wearer. Therefore, it is important to remember that the shoulders of the jacket should follow the natural line of the wearer's shoulders.
To choose the essential pieces for your spring-summer wardrobe and benefit from free fashion advice , visit the Tudor Personal Tailor showrooms in Bucharest, Cluj and Timisoara .
Find out more information about the tailored suit in the article " What is the value of a custom-made suit?"